Transforming your backyard with a modern, in-ground trampoline system is one of the most rewarding home improvement projects a family can undertake. However, unlike setting up a conventional model on legs, an in-ground trampoline installation is a construction project.
Installing an in-ground trampoline involves 6 key steps: planning and permitting, excavating a hole (typically 30–36 inches deep and slightly wider than the trampoline diameter), building retaining walls, installing drainage, assembling the frame and mat, and finishing the surround.
The full process takes 1–3 days for professionals or 2–5 days for a confident DIYer, with total installation costs ranging from $500 to $3,000+, depending on method and location.
Remember that this document is only meant to serve as a guide, and not to fully replace the manual that you should have received along with an in ground trampoline. Before you start assembling and installing the in-ground trampoline kit, un-package everything and open up the manual to make sure you have all the parts required. Check off everything that you need and get everything organized in the yard so that it is readily available.
Installing an in-ground trampoline step-by-step:
At its core, an in-ground trampoline installation involves creating a permanent, subterranean structural vault. This project requires digging a precise, multi-tiered pit, lining it against soil erosion, managing stormwater runoff, and securing the equipment so it sits flush.
It is a common misconception that you can simply dig a rough hole and throw a standard trampoline inside. Traditional frames are not engineered to handle lateral soil pressure, subsurface humidity, or the physics of trapped air.
Specialized in-ground kits are manufactured from thick galvanized steel, with integrated airflow ventilation pathways and dedicated retaining walls designed to keep your backyard intact.
Thorough planning is essential to any in-ground trampoline installation. Poor placement or an ignored property boundary can result in code violations or an un-bounceable, flooded in-ground trampoline.
Underground Utility Check (Call 811)
Your first step is calling your local utility locating service (such as 811 in the United States). This service is free, and contractors will come out to spray-paint where it is safe for you to dig.
Clearance and Obstructions
Select a perfectly level section of your yard. You must establish a 3-foot clear safety perimeter around the outside edge of the frame. Look upward as well; ensure there are no low-hanging branches or overhead power lines within 24 feet of the grass.
Homeowners Associations (HOAs) and Permits
Check your local municipal building codes and HOA guidelines. While HOAs favor flush-mount designs, some regions still require a minor excavation or residential grading permit.
Set Up the Frame and Mark the Dig Area
Start by assembling the frame. You do not need to assemble it completely, you just need to get it to where you are able to mark the dig area.
Begin assembling it in the area you plan to dig the hole. Make sure that the holes for the springs are pointing upwards when you are doing so. You can do this with one person, but it will go by faster with two.
After the frame is set up, find a way to mark the area that you want to start digging (can use spray paint). You may want to add about 2-5 inches to the outline of the frame so that it will be easier to place it in the hole. Remember that you can backfill this.
Once you have your frame built and an area marked off, you can begin taking off some of the turf so that you can use it to backfill later. You don't need to save all of the turf, just enough to cover your tracks.
Excavation is the most physically demanding stage of your in-ground trampoline installation. You will not be digging a straight hole; you are carving out a multi-tiered, bowl-shaped pit custom-tailored to your trampoline frame's size.
Once you have enough turf saved, you can begin going all out and digging the hole. The first dig will involve going down to the shelf level. Consult your manual for the required depth for the ledge, but you'll want to use a measuring device to complete each dig. Dig to this depth for the entire hole to begin with (not just the frame) and make sure you measure all sides at multiple points every few feet or so.
After you've dug the first hole, mark out the area for the next hole. Again, consult the sizing requirements for shelf length requirements. It's safe to add an inch or two as you will be backfilling this area. Then begin to dig the second hole, which will serve as the bounce area, which is also called the bowl area.
The sides of the hole do not have to go straight down. They should be rather steep, but feel free to allow them to come down at a good angle. This minimizes the amount of soil you need to take out.
The Two-Tiered Dig Method
To install a proper sunken system, your hole must feature two distinct zones:
Hole Dimensions by Size
| Trampoline Size & Shape | Physical Frame Diameter | Recommended Hole Cut Width | Maximum Center Depth Required | Estimated Dirt Volume to Move |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 12-Foot Round | 12 Feet (366 cm) | 12 Feet, 4 Inches | 33 Inches (84 cm) | ~5.5 Cubic Yards |
| 14-Foot Round | 14 Feet (427 cm) | 14 Feet, 4 Inches | 36 Inches (91 cm) | ~7.5 Cubic Yards |
| 10x14-Foot Rectangle | 10' x 14' (305x427 cm) | 10'4" x 14'4" | 36 Inches (91 cm) | ~8.0 Cubic Yards |
| 10x17-Foot Rectangle | 10' x 17' (305x518 cm) | 10'4" x 17'4" | 40 Inches (102 cm) | ~11.5 Cubic Yards |
Note: The following are dimensions for hole digging by brand, for reference alongside the general sizing chart above.
Rectangle Trampoline Hole Dimensions
| Brand | Outer/Frame Hole Dimensions | Outer/Frame Hole Depth | Inner Hole Dimensions | Inner Hole Depth |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Avyna | 10x17' | 9" | 8'4"x15'4" | 36" |
| TDU / Capital Play | 10x14' | 10" | 8'8"x12'8" | 36" |
Round Trampoline Hole Dimensions
| Brand | Outer/Frame Hole Dimensions | Outer/Frame Hole Depth | Inner Hole Dimensions | Inner Hole Depth |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Avyna | 12' | 9" | 10'8" | 36" |
| Avyna | 14' | 9" | 12'8" | 36" |
| TDU (Retaining Wall) | 14' | 36" (only one hole made) | – | – |
Failing to reinforce your pit walls and ignoring water management are the primary reasons cheap DIY in-ground trampoline installations collapse or rust out prematurely. After you've dug your hole, it's time to finish assembling the frame and attach the retaining walls using a screwdriver.
The retaining walls should have holes for the screws already in place, so all you need to do is line them up and start screwing them on. It's best to start with the top holes first, and then move on to the bottom holes to complete the attachment. After you've done this, set the frame inside the hole and place it on the shelf to make sure it fits correctly. If it fits correctly you can continue, otherwise you'll need to make adjustments.
Retaining Wall Structural Options
A retaining wall is non-negotiable; rain, snowmelt, and lawn vibrations from jumping will cause unprotected dirt to cave in.
Subsurface Drainage Engineering
When it rains, your trampoline pit acts like a natural basin. Standing water inside the hole will ruin your springs, degrade the lower frame welds, and create an unhealthy vector for mosquitoes and mold. It's a good idea to do some form of water mitigation through drainage before you go further.
With your pit excavated and drainage infrastructure secured, line the dirt bowl with high-quality geotextile weed fabric, which allows water to drain freely into the earth while completely blocking weeds, grass, and burrowing pests from invading your pit. This is also referred to as laying the membrane down.
Now, assemble the outer steel frame on your flat lawn surface next to the hole. Ensure all top rails, leg structures, and interlocking T-sockets are tightly secured with the manufacturer's locking pins or bolts.
Carefully lift and lower the assembled frame structure onto the 12-inch outer shelf inside the pit. Use a 4-foot carpenter's bubble level to check the frame across multiple angles. The top rail must sit completely flush with your grass line.
If one side is low, lift the frame and pack clean drainage gravel beneath the legs until the entire system is perfectly level.
Once the frame sits level and solid on its ledge, you can install the tension mechanics. Once the frame is in the hole you can start to attach the mat with the springs.
Spring Alignment Technique
Attach the jumping mat to the trampoline frame using a methodical spring sequence to distribute the immense tension evenly. Never install springs consecutively in a single circle; this will warp the mat and overstretch the remaining springs.
Start by snapping in four springs at the primary compass points: 12 o'clock, 6 o'clock, 3 o'clock, and 9 o'clock. If you are installing a rectangle trampoline, then you will want to start with the four corners and the middle of the sides, and then move on from there.
Work your way around by filling in the exact halfway points between your established springs, continually crossing back and forth across the mat. If you work in opposites with someone, it will make it easier as the tension will be even. Always utilize the provided spring-pull tool to protect your hands and joints.
Once you get the springs on, you'll notice that the frame has moved in quite a bit. At this point, you'll want to do a little test run with your trampoline and jump up and down on the mat to make sure everything is secure.
Fitting the Safety Pad
Lay the thick, UV-stabilized PVC safety pad across the spring array. The padding must completely insulate the metal frame, top rail, and every spring hook to protect jumpers from impact injuries. It's best to get all of the toggles onto the pad first, with the round ball facing the inside of the pad. When they're attached, flip the pad over onto the trampoline and begin to attach it by looping the toggles onto the frame. Your manual should provide clear instructions on how to do this.
Secure the pad tightly to the frame structure using the manufacturer's elastic bungee straps or tie-down cords.
The final phase of an in-ground trampoline installation involves anchoring the structure to the ground and closing the exterior gap.
If everything feels good after your spring test run, you can start to backfill the space between the outer side of the retaining wall and the ground. Try not to get any soil inside the bowl area.
Walk around the outside of the trampoline frame and fill any remaining voids between your lawn's dirt walls and the trampoline's retaining panels with clean gravel or leftover topsoil. Firmly tamp down this backfill every 6 inches to prevent future settling or sinkholes along the edge.
To finish the look, bring your grass or synthetic turf right up to the edge of the safety padding, re-turfing with some of the turf you saved earlier. If you are using real turf, lay down a thin border of landscaping river rock, decorative mulch, or a flexible rubber paver ring around the outer edge.
That's it! You've now completed the assembly and are ready to get jumping. Give it a whirl right away and see if everything seems and feels ok. You're now ready for good old fashioned fun for years to come!
Sinking a trampoline is a major backyard modification. Choosing between a weekend DIY approach and hiring a professional crew comes down to your resources, physical stamina, and budget.
DIY Installation
Pros: Saves between $1,500 and $3,000 in specialized labor costs; gives you total control over the timeline; highly rewarding hands-on home project.
Cons: Requires immense physical labor (moving roughly 7 to 11 cubic yards of heavy dirt); requires renting and operating specialized machinery, such as mini-excavators; errors in leveling or drainage can be costly to fix later.
Professional Installation
Pros: The entire dig, dirt disposal, drainage integration, and safety checks are handled in 1–2 days; guarantees a perfectly level frame and functional drainage; zero physical toll on your end.
Cons: Higher initial investment; requires coordinating schedules with local contractors.
If you want to skip the logistical hassle of sourcing local excavation crews, you can coordinate full-service support directly through trampolines.com.
The project timeline depends entirely on your soil type (soft sand vs. dense clay), the equipment you use, and your crew's experience level:
| Project Expense Category | DIY Approach (Self-Executed) | Professional Installation Crew |
|---|---|---|
| In-Ground Trampoline Kit | $1,800 – $4,200 (Premium kit with walls) | $1,800 – $4,200 (Premium kit with walls) |
| Machinery / Tool Rental | $150 – $450 (Mini-skid steer or excavator) | Included in labor quote |
| Drainage Materials Base | $100 – $300 (Gravel, fabric, drain pipes) | $150 – $400 (Bulk contractor pricing) |
| Excavation & Assembly Labor | $0 (Sweat equity) | $1,200 – $2,500 (Site dependent) |
| Dirt Haul-Away / Disposal | $150 – $400 (Dumpster rental fee) | $200 – $600 (Trucking fees) |
| Contingency Fund (Sump/Clay) | $0 – $250 (Optional pump if needed) | Included in comprehensive quote |
| Estimated Total Project Cost | $2,200 – $5,600 | $3,350 – $7,700+ |
How do you install an in-ground trampoline?
An in-ground trampoline installation process starts with digging a two-tiered, bowl-shaped pit that matches your frame's dimensions, lining the dirt with geotextile fabric, and laying down a stone drainage base.
Next, you assemble the frame, attach the soil retaining walls, level the unit on the outer ledge, hook up the spring array, and backfill the exterior gap flush with your lawn line.
How deep does the hole need to be for an in-ground trampoline?
The hole must drop down to a maximum center depth of 33 to 40 inches, depending on the diameter of your frame, to safely prevent high-velocity jumpers from striking the bottom.
The outer perimeter ledge is dug to a uniform depth of exactly 12 inches to provide a stable foundation for the frame legs and retaining wall panels.
Can I install an in-ground trampoline myself?
Yes, you can execute an in-ground trampoline installation yourself if you enjoy hands-on landscaping projects and are comfortable operating small rental machinery. Many homeowners tackle the dig over a weekend to save on professional labor.
How long does it take to install an in-ground trampoline?
A professional installation crew using commercial equipment can complete the entire excavation and assembly process in 1 to 2 days.
A confident DIY homeowner using rented machinery should plan for a 2-to-3-day weekend project, while hand-shoveling can take up to a week of intense physical effort.
Do in-ground trampolines need drainage?
Yes, proper drainage is vital for any in-ground installation. Without water management, rain and snowmelt will pool inside the pit, creating stagnant water that can rust your springs, degrade frame welds, and breed mosquitoes.
Incorporating a gravel soak-away pit, a gravity-fed French drain, or an automated sump pump keeps your pit completely dry.
How much does it cost to have an in-ground trampoline installed?
Professional excavation, dirt disposal, and assembly labor typically range from $1,500 to $3,500+ on top of the cost of the trampoline kit itself.
The final price varies based on your regional labor rates, soil composition (such as dense clay or rocky earth), and how easily heavy excavation equipment can access your backyard.
Can I put a regular trampoline in the ground?
It is possible to put an above ground trampoline in the ground by using a retaining wall that you can fit to your existing trampoline. When purchasing a retaining wall for your normal trampoline, make sure that the sizes match up. The size of the retaining wall should match the size of the trampoline frame - not the jumping area.
The difference in the process for putting a regular trampoline in the ground, as opposed to using an in ground trampoline, is that you will only dig one hole 3 feet deep, instead of digging two holes (one of which is for creating an additional hole for the shelf).
Of course you can try to DIY and use wood, metal, or bricks for a retaining wall, but many times these self made options are susceptible to problems like rotting, insects, or improper construction.
Can you put a trampoline on artificial grass?
Installing in-ground trampolines on turf is possible and many times even favorable. This is because the synthetic grass will always be green, lush, and visually appealing. It is a common trend and is growing in popularity.
Can I put a trampoline in the front yard?
Although there aren't any laws against installing a trampoline in the front yard, your insurance company may not insure your home if you do so as it can be seen as a liability. Additionally if you live in a sub development or are a part of an association, it may be against the rules. Additionally, a trampoline in the front yard may look like a public park, and there is a possibility that random strangers would take to jumping on it.
Can I put a trampoline on gravel, concrete, or in my garage?
If you are looking to install a trampoline, it's best not to put it on top of gravel or concrete for safety reasons. There is a risk that a child, adult, or even a pet will fall off and seriously injure themselves on the hard ground. That being said, there are ways to pad the area and childproof it to make it safe if you absolutely want to install a trampoline in your garage or on an area where there is concrete.
Can I install a trampoline on uneven ground?
It is possible to install a trampoline on uneven ground, or a slope, by digging out a trench to make the ground flat. The digging for installing a trampoline on a slope is much more intense, and you will have to make a plethora of different measurements to make it happen.
Can I use a trampoline in the winter?
If you live in an area that is susceptible to extreme cold and large amounts of snow, it is best to either place a cover on your in ground trampoline, or disassemble your above ground trampoline and store it during the winter. Snow and icicles can build up on the mat, and it could possibly damage reduce the trampoline mat's life-span.
